tisdag 27 september 2016

My second trip to Jordan

This time I decided to do only the desert trip, nothing other, because I love the desert and wanted to see the black desert also. The route was as bellow on the map.


We rented the car again, began our trip in Madaba but stayed only 2 nights and then were driving towards Azraq. Wanted to visit all desert castle we should have on the way.

But first, before to leave Madaba, I wished also to go to Mukawir which I not saw properly last time due I not found the way, even if I gone in right direction. So now I found it of course, but anyway not went up on the hill to see the whole. As said, my friend have a little difficult to go and actually it was really warm and I was too lazy to go alone, so I also have satisfy me with to see it from the visitor center. It was amazing anyway with all hills around there. I liked it so much.


 

Next day we started then our trip towards the desert and to Azraq where we wanted to stay a couple of days for to explore the almost whole area as possible.

GPS in Jordan is not working so properly sometimes. When we started in Madaba and drove out so suddenly the signal disappeared and had searching after GPS at all. I got go back to the town and then go as hotel manager in Madaba described for me how to go. It was a little exciting, we were going towards Amman and I was searching after sing towards Saudi Arabia and Iraq. Then I found it, but some "jokeman" took out the arrows so I didn't know which way to take. But I took a chance and continued and slowly I found the right road towards Azraq. And of course, almost in the same moment GPS found the way also, LOL.

It was not so nice road actually, many trucks were on the road and surrounding not so funny either, but slowly it began be a little more like the desert so it was good.

Finally we arrived to the first castle, Qasr Harraneh, one small but nice castle. They are still wondering for which purpose it was build, if as caravanserai or some kind of accommodation or only one meeting place, but it was quite big and had 2 floors.

 




wonderful view over the desert from the roof

But, it was a big shame, because there on the left side, about maybe 500 meter only it was a power station, which was terrible and I not only understand, why they built it so near this castle. Already that it was so near the road was a little disturbing moment, but this was really disturbing.

Next stop was by Qusayr Amra, one bathhouse with wonderful frescoes, which need renovation of course, but it was good visible in any case. For those frescoes, between other, Amra is unique in the world and therefore in UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Later, in Azraq, I met two Italian archeologists who was there just for to restore frescoes so we had a lot of interesting discussion about.







Outside this building that served as water containers were wheel that pumped water into and eventually to the bathhouse.




In Amra I got also one proposition of a Bedouin there, haha, that he will teach me to be guide there so I can guide the tourist while he self will only relax.

He invited us then for to drink a tea with him and we got interesting conversation about Amra but even about Islam. He was so sad that people in Christian countries understand so bad about Islam and think that all Muslims are bad and terrorists. I am agree with him, the people not know nothing about and due theirs ignorance they judge all of them. It is so wrong and I hope it will be changing in theirs mind and they begin understand that Islam as religion is not bad and those terrorists only use it as disguise, but in fact they are bad Muslims and want to have only power.

By the way, such discussion we had more times with the people during our trip, all of them are quite unhappy for this misunderstanding. So please, people, think right and do not put everyone in the same bag, so to speak.

In the evening we came to Azraq, a small town, not big, but I thought that it will be larger than it was. So it was quite nice to be in a small desert town. We stayed at Azraq lodge, which was quite good, but a little expensive. I have no picture of that, only view from the room, not so much to see actually.


Next day we were going to Wetland Reserve. It was near, very near the town so it was also quite to find it. Quite big area but unfortunately not so much water there because quite much water goes to Amman and then there are about 1000 illegal pumps, so the water is steadily dropped.
But it was nice walk, about 1,5 km long through the area, sometimes on the ground to go, sometimes on bridges.





We spent there a couple of hours, it was nice there, but unfortunately not saw any birds or buffalo either. But relaxing place it is in any case.

Afternoon we drove to black desert about, 22 km from Azraq towards Iraq border, because I wanted to find Qasr Aseikhin, a small Roman fortress, built over Nabataean castle or what it was then. The black desert self was interesting, consisting of smaller or bigger basalt stones, I never saw such before, so one new desert to my "desert collection". ☺

Black desert with afternoon's sun.




It was not so difficult to find the way to Qasr Aseikhin, but then it was not so easy to arrive until, first it was good paved small road, then only dirty road which changed to one way with bigger stones overall, so I had to go by foot the last piece. But it was worth. There up it was not much left of course. But one nice arch anyway. And wonderful view over the whole black desert, which is actually not so black in the picture.


Then it was only to go back to Azraq Lodge, a nice and comfortable hotel, which originally was a British hospital.

Next day was the time for to go to Azraq originally Roman castle, built of basalt stones. Later it was fortified as a defense against Crusaders. It was quite big and even if it was destroyed you get imagine how it could be before. Lawrence had there his headquarter over winter during Arab revolt.

The building in the middle was rebuild to mosque.







this door could be a little heavy to open ☺
Enough with the pictures of Azraq castle, it can never show how big it was, it must sees for to imagine it.

Afternoon we rented 4x4 with driver because I wanted to go to one other desert and fortress, Qasr Uweinid. I had read that those who find this castle, they would deserve a medal. I had not 4x4, without it was impossible to go, and I had not either feelings to go and search self, so I get not medal. But I saw and it was more than a medal. ☺
Once upon a time it was big Roman fortress to protect the source of Wadi as-Sirhan. It was almost nothing left, ruined wall and also wells, but a little there was in any case. On some stones it was a little visible inscriptions, if you had a good imagine. And you could see also remains of one chair made of stone.




So it was the last of the desert castles I saw, Wished to see even Qasr al Tuba, but it was far from Azraq and absolute necessary 4x4, so it can wait for next time.

Next day it was time to leave Azraq and go down to Wadi Rum. I took desert road no. 5, good and not so busy way it was. Through the desert, camels we saw a lot and it was really enjoyable driving. I like so much to drive in Jordan, it is so much to see around there. We  drove via Al-Jarf and to Ma'an where I wanted to go to the rail station but then not did it. It was quite late and we had still quite far to Wadi Rum.






Ma'an
To Wadi Rum we arrived not so late anyway, around 4 o'clock I think it was and they already waited us there in the village so it was nice. It felt like we never gone from there last time, only drove around and came back. Really nice it was to meet this family we learnt to know last time in May. After a while we then were going to the camp and even this was nice to see it again. I like Wadi Rum so much and this camp is really perfect located, better it could not be.

Every day we did the trip through the white wild desert, it was so fantastic, impossible to describe it. I could only go there the whole time without to come back, only drive and drive, without to have some goal. And admire this beauty. And enjoy the freedom, silence, calm and peace. Relax, look around, see and smell.






One day we have also gone to Aqaba because I wanted to see one ancient church, the first church in the whole world at all, have I read. It was not so easy to find it and almost nobody knew about so it took time before we found it in any case. It was not much left, but still a little walls and so.





I wanted to see even Disi, near Wadi Rum, so we have also drove there also, but it was not so beautiful like Wadi Rum. Anyway interesting to see it was though and we spent there the whole day driving around, sitting and drinking tea, relaxing and so.


down to Roman well

Then it came our last day and it was one wonderful day again, driving around there, enjoying, forgetting the time, only be and feel. A little sad, sorrowful day it was too when I had thinking at that it is last day, but even if in the desert the time is at a standstill so it move anyway further. Unfortunately. Mournful.





strange picture, it should be moon, but ...

Next day it was our last day and then we had to go back to Madaba and to Sweden after 14 days in Jordan.

I have gone down to Aqaba and then on the desert road no. 65. Originally I wanted to take the road no. 15 but this through the desert and along the Dead Sea was more suitable for my desert trip this time. Only the desert. Almost the whole way and time.

sunset over Dead Sea
In Madaba we had still one day before leaving and that day I wanted to go and see the last desert castle, Qasr al-Mushatta, located near the airport, unfortunately, but ...

This castle was never built finished due the lack of the water I have read and moreover it was destroyed in the earthquake and fire. But it was much left in any case and interesting to see it.

 




So it was all for this time and who know when I can come to Jordan again. I wish to do it soon, but ... Inshallah!


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